Short Answer
What Is Baccalà / bacala‘? Italian Salt Cod Explained
Baccalà (also spelled baccalà or bacala‘) is the Italian term for salt-cured cod, typically derived from Atlantic cod (Gadus morhua) that has been preserved with coarse sea salt. Unlike fresh cod, baccalà undergoes a curing process that transforms its texture and flavor, making it a versatile ingredient in many regional Italian dishes. The key ingredients are simply cod and salt, but the preparation involves a lengthy desalting process—soaking the fish in cold water for 24 to 72 hours, changing the water frequently—to rehydrate and remove excess salt before cooking. Baccalà is not to be confused with stoccafisso (air-dried cod), though both are forms of preserved cod. Originating from the need to preserve fish for long journeys and winter months, baccalà became a cornerstone of Italian cuisine, especially in coastal regions and during religious fasting periods.
Origin & History
The history of baccalà in Italy is deeply intertwined with trade routes and the Catholic Church. While cod itself is not native to the Mediterranean, the practice of salting fish dates back to ancient times. The modern tradition of baccalà emerged in the 15th and 16th centuries, when Venetian and Genoese merchants began importing large quantities of salted cod from the North Atlantic—primarily from Norway, Iceland, and later Newfoundland. The fish was cheap, preserved well, and provided a valuable source of protein during Lent and other meatless days mandated by the Church.
One of the earliest documented references to baccalà in Italy appears in the 16th-century cookbook Opera by Bartolomeo Scappi, personal chef to Pope Pius V. Scappi describes recipes for “baccalà” that involve boiling, frying, and stewing. However, the dish truly took root in the Veneto region, where the city of Vicenza became famous for Baccalà alla Vicentina—a slow-cooked stew of baccalà with onions, milk, anchovies, and Parmesan. Legend has it that the recipe was created by a local fisherman’s wife in the 16th century, though historical evidence points to a more gradual evolution.
In southern Italy, baccalà became a staple of the cucina povera (poor kitchen) tradition, particularly in Naples, Sicily, and Calabria. The fish was affordable and could be stored without refrigeration, making it ideal for inland communities. Over centuries, each region developed its own signature preparations, from fried fillets in Rome to tomato-based stews in Campania. Today, baccalà remains a beloved ingredient, especially during Christmas Eve celebrations (the Feast of the Seven Fishes) and on Good Friday.
What’s In It
At its core, baccalà is simply salted cod. But the magic lies in the preparation. The essential ingredients for any baccalà dish are:
- Baccalà (salted cod) – usually sold in thick fillets or pieces, heavily coated in salt.
- Water – for desalting; the process requires multiple changes of cold water over 1–3 days.
- Olive oil – extra virgin for finishing or cooking.
- Aromatics – garlic, onions, parsley, bay leaves, and sometimes chili flakes.
- Acid – lemon juice, white wine, or vinegar to balance the saltiness.
Preparation nuances vary by recipe. For example, Baccalà alla Vicentina requires slow simmering in milk and anchovy-infused oil, while Baccalà fritto (fried baccalà) calls for a light batter of flour and sparkling water. The key is to never overcook the fish after rehydration, as it can become tough.
Baccalà is often confused with stoccafisso (stockfish), which is air-dried without salt. While both are preserved cod, stoccafisso has a more concentrated flavor and requires longer soaking. In Italy, the two are sometimes used interchangeably in recipes, but purists insist on the distinction.
Regional Variations
Baccalà is prepared differently across Italy, reflecting local tastes and available ingredients. Below is a comparison of three major regional styles:
| Region | Dish Name | Key Ingredients | Cooking Method | Flavor Profile |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Veneto (Vicenza) | Baccalà alla Vicentina | Baccalà, onions, milk, anchovies, Parmesan, olive oil | Slow-simmered for hours | Rich, creamy, umami |
| Campania (Naples) | Baccalà alla Napoletana | Baccalà, tomatoes, olives, capers, garlic, white wine | Stewed in tomato sauce | Tangy, briny, hearty |
| Sicily | Baccalà alla Siciliana | Baccalà, raisins, pine nuts, saffron, tomatoes, cinnamon | Baked or stewed | Sweet-savory, aromatic |
Other notable variations include Baccalà in umido (stewed with vegetables) in Lazio, Baccalà mantecato (creamed baccalà) in Veneto, and Baccalà fritto (fried) in Rome and Naples. In Calabria, baccalà is often paired with spicy nduja sausage, while in Liguria it appears in brandacujun, a creamy spread with potatoes and olive oil.
How It’s Traditionally Eaten
Baccalà can appear in any course of an Italian meal, but it is most commonly served as a secondo (main course) or antipasto (starter). In the Veneto, Baccalà alla Vicentina is typically served as a secondo with polenta, while Baccalà mantecato is spread on crostini as an antipasto. In Naples, fried baccalà is a popular street food and often eaten as a snack or appetizer.
Pairings vary by region: white wines like Soave or Verdicchio complement the delicate flavor of baccalà, while red wines such as Chianti can stand up to tomato-based versions. Side dishes often include roasted vegetables, sautéed greens, or simple salads.
Baccalà is especially associated with religious holidays. On Christmas Eve, many Italian families serve baccalà as part of the Feast of the Seven Fishes, a tradition that celebrates the vigil before Christmas with multiple seafood dishes. Good Friday also sees baccalà on tables, as it satisfies the requirement for meatless meals.
Common Mistakes / What It’s Not
One of the most frequent misconceptions among American-Italian cooks is confusing baccalà with fresh cod. Baccalà is not fresh cod; it is a preserved product that requires proper desalting. Skipping or shortening the soaking process results in an inedibly salty dish. Another mistake is overcooking the fish after rehydration, which makes it dry and tough.
Baccalà is also not the same as stoccafisso (stockfish). While both are preserved cod, stoccafisso is air-dried without salt and has a different texture and flavor. In some Italian regions, the terms are used loosely, but culinary purists maintain the distinction.
Additionally, baccalà should not be confused with bacalao (Spanish for dried cod) or bacalhau (Portuguese), though they share a common origin. Each culture has its own preparation methods and traditions.
Finally, avoid using baccalà in recipes that call for fresh cod without adjusting the salt content. The desalting process is essential, and even after soaking, baccalà retains some saltiness that must be accounted for in seasoning.
Where to Try It / What to Order
For an authentic baccalà experience, head to the regions where it is most celebrated. In Vicenza, visit a traditional osteria and order Baccalà alla Vicentina served with creamy polenta. In Naples, seek out a friggitoria (frying shop) for Baccalà fritto—crispy golden fillets often served with lemon wedges. In Rome, try Baccalà in umido at a trattoria in the Jewish Ghetto, where the dish has been a specialty for centuries.
For travelers, the annual Sagra del Baccalà (Baccalà Festival) in Sandrigo (Veneto) is a must-visit, featuring dozens of variations. In Sicily, the town of Castelvetrano holds a baccalà festival in August. When ordering, ask for baccalà mantecato in Venice, baccalà alla livornese in Tuscany, or baccalà alla calabrese in Calabria. Always confirm that the dish is made with baccalà (salted cod) and not fresh cod.
Related Dishes
- Stoccafisso (Stockfish)
- Baccalà alla Vicentina
- Baccalà Mantecato
- Baccalà Fritto
- Feast of the Seven Fishes
FAQ
What is the difference between baccalà and stoccafisso?
Baccalà is salt-cured cod, while stoccafisso (stockfish) is air-dried cod without salt. Both are preserved forms of cod, but baccalà requires desalting before cooking, whereas stoccafisso needs rehydration in water for several days. The flavor and texture also differ: baccalà is saltier and moister after soaking, while stoccafisso has a more intense, concentrated taste.
How do you prepare baccalà?
Preparation begins with desalting: soak the baccalà in cold water for 24–72 hours, changing the water every 6–8 hours. After desalting, remove the skin and bones, then cook according to the recipe. Common methods include slow-simmering in milk or tomato sauce, frying in batter, or baking with vegetables. The key is to avoid overcooking, as the fish can become tough.
Is baccalà popular in all of Italy?
Yes, baccalà is enjoyed throughout Italy, but it is especially prominent in coastal regions and areas with strong historical trade connections to Northern Europe. The Veneto region (particularly Vicenza) is most famous for baccalà, but it is also a staple in Campania, Sicily, Lazio, Calabria, and Liguria. Each region has its own signature preparation.
Can I substitute fresh cod for baccalà in recipes?
No, fresh cod cannot be directly substituted for baccalà because the salt-curing process fundamentally changes the texture and flavor. If you must use fresh cod, you will need to add salt to mimic the seasoning, but the result will be different. It is better to use properly desalted baccalà for authentic dishes.
What wine pairs best with baccalà?
White wines with good acidity and minerality, such as Soave, Verdicchio, or Gavi, pair well with most baccalà dishes. For tomato-based or spicier versions (e.g., Baccalà alla Napoletana), a light red like Chianti or a rosé can also work.
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